Glue

[Nerdos]

Told you it wouldn't be long before the next gormless question.  Glue: is there anything wrong with using Evo Stik PVA (which I have a vat of) or should I use one of the two brands mentioned in the build manual (which don't seem to be very common)?  If so, can any say why?

Thanks,
PaulB

[multisync]

Hi Paul
I used Evo-Stick PVA and it's fine. When I ran out of that, I resorted to an unbranded PVA that I bought in one of the local "cheap shops". I glued and screwed a piece of MDF to some soft wood with it, wrongly! When I tried to separate them about an hour later, the mdf split open and left part of it attached to the softwood. So I wouldn't worry about the brand.
By the way there are two versions of Evo PVA, a normal and a waterproof.
All PVA adhesives work better if clamped or screwed, to compress the glue into a thin layer. They don't work well if just glued and left un clamped. So it's always necessary to apply the adhesive and then screw or clamp till it oozes out.
So the instructions in the manual to glue and screw are quite critical.
Best wishes
Walter

[brian]

I used waterproof PVA because I happened to have some in stock from a previous external woodworking job which was going to have to withstand the elements, but when this ran out, I reverted to normal PVA which again came from my stock cupboard

Waterproof PVA is the best glue to use, but, as none of us are likely to let the Toylanders get truly wet, any branded PVA glue will be more than adequate when reinforced with woodscrews.

Any squeezed out excess should be wiped off with a damp cloth, for no other reason than it looks untidy and can be a devil to shift when set.

The PVA can also be diluted and painted onto the MDF to act as a sealant and stop the subsequant coats of paint soaking in, especially along the end grain of any cuts.

It can also be used as a hard filler if mixed with a bulker like polyfilla.

Regards,

Brian.

[markh15]

Hi Paul,
When fitting the battens, I first drilled the pilot holes, then screwed them in 'Dry' (no glue). Then when I was sure they were in the right place, I took them apart and squeezed a thin (4 mm) bead of PVA Woodglue down the center of the batten, and fastened them back in place with the screws. This squeezes out the excess glue and places them tightly in position, cutting out the clamping. Then, as Brian says, I removed the excess with a rag, sealing the gap.

Like walter, I had cause to remove a wrongly placed batten, and damaged the ply, so this is why I advise 'Dry' placement first, before commiting to glue!

Told you there are no 'Gormless' questions, just queeries!

Keep Busy,
Regards,
The advice team!!

Providing it is a 'Propriatary' brand, I don't think you should have any problems.

[Tosh]

Fortunately for me, my cheating has resulted in no gluing. But I have glued. I have used Gorilla Glue to stick the ally trim around the top of the tub, for example. Needs clamping but it seems really stuck!

[bill shuter]

There is an adhesive called sikaflex 221, available either black or white which will stick like the proverbial to a blanket. I used it to glue wing tops on my Geepstar & there is NO WAY they are coming off again. Caravan manufacturers use it to glue their side/top/end panels on. It really is massively strong.

[brian]

Costs about £8 a tube, can be found at car factors.

Brian.

[Robert]

I'm getting at the point to take my TL apart and glue all the wooden parts before reassemble it again before painting,
The EVO-stick you mention, seems to be a typical British product, therefor I intend to use a PU (polyurethane) glue for the wooden parts.
Has anyone experiences with this type of glue for a TL?



Then, what type of product would you advice to fill the gaps, for instance at the front wing caps ?