Author Topic: N00bie building toylander1  (Read 2202 times)

johnny77

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N00bie building toylander1
« on: 09 July, 2011, 10:11:17 AM »
Hi Folks! I purchased a set of instructions from Richard approx 3 years ago, but have not had the time to do anything with them.....until now! I have 2x large sheets of mdf and some new jigsaw blades (lol) and will be setting it all out on the garage floor soon. (rusty vauxhall in the way)

I have lots, and lots of questions. I'll try and keep them in the right places. Firstly I'm on a budget, and have seen quite a few folks use mobilty scooters for parts. is there any particular scooter that fits the purpose? When fitting the instructions to the mdf, is it best to attatch them using spray mount or similar or simply draw round them. Finally my instructions are 3 years old, has anything been modified since i purchased?

Just off for a nosy of your W.I.P's  :)

Richard

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #1 on: 09 July, 2011, 10:41:47 AM »
The only real change Johnny77 is that we no longer need to cut holes for the rear lights or side lights under the screen as these are surface mount. Also the headlamps changed a while back and if when you cut the holes you leave small lugs either side of the hole it saves using batten and longer screws.
A swing axle drawing has been added as has both metal and wood versions of the throttle box. Please send me a mail on the main mail and I'll send the drawings. This will not be needed if you can use the controller from the scoot.
Most scoots have 10 or 12" wheels these in the main need the gearing changed and most fit under the seat or underneath body and chain drive to rear wheels. If you can find a scoot with 14 or 15" wheels extend the axles and put wheels straight on. If chain drive send RPM and I'll tell you the sprocket size required to keep the torque up.
BW's Richard
Best wishes
Richard

luvbus

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #2 on: 09 July, 2011, 11:54:28 AM »
Make sure you check the measurements of the drawings match the measurements given in the handbook especially as they are not new and the paper may have 'stretched/shrunk'.

I marked out the sections (squares, rectangles etc) onto the MDF using the dimensions from the book then I traced the details like wheel arches and other curves onto drawing film which I then stuck on with spray glue. Make sure you use as light a dusting of spray mount you can get away with then you wont have to spend ages scraping the paper off afterwords like I had to with a couple of mine!!

Brian has made a good post on cutting out the panels with hints & tips here:-

http://www.toylanderownersclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,193.0.html

Have fun! ;)

brian

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #3 on: 09 July, 2011, 10:24:03 PM »
My word luvbus, (I hate using pseudonyms, please give us a name we can address)  it's a long time since I posted that, I'm glad people are still finding there way onto my post's for information they think may be useful.

Thank you for making an old man's day.

Kind regards,

Brian.
Brian.

Geriatric kitcar builder.

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #4 on: 10 July, 2011, 09:34:18 AM »
Wow, thanks for the reply's folks! Richard, thankyou, i will be sure to drop you a mail. I have kept my drawings flat and dry so hopefully they'll be ok. As soon as i have the floor space back i will get it all laid out. Luvbus, thanks for the mount advice, i would never have thought about trying to remove them afterwards!
 I think i will purchase some of the finer points from Richard, will save me time and the expense of cocking it up myself. I will be sure to take lots of photos and start a good work in progress thread so you can all have a nose (read point out where i'm going wrong!)
Thankyou all again! John.  :)

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #5 on: 21 August, 2011, 08:29:45 PM »
Well i have been doing some sawing, will update with a pic when it looks something like!  I have made some mistakes, but i'm hoping it turns out ok! :)

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #6 on: 21 August, 2011, 08:35:23 PM »

Ant-G

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #7 on: 21 August, 2011, 09:11:16 PM »
Hi
The wheels you have found are too small being 10" diameter (and from experience have a tendency to blow tyres).
If you are not getting the wheels from Richard you need small trailer ones

multisync

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #8 on: 23 August, 2011, 09:35:49 AM »
Hi
The wheels you need are about 15 in overall, these are 10 in overall so are going to be too small.
If you source wheels from elsewhere, you will then have the added problems of making suitable axles, and fitting drive sprockets to the wheels.
Richard items are designed to fit on the standard axles and you can have the correct sprockets factory fitted, so you know it'll all work out ok!
Best of luck
Walter
Just a Big kid! I love toys! Collect Dinky's, build model planes and helis, etc

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #9 on: 05 September, 2011, 07:26:33 PM »
ok thanks for the advice guys, might have to invest in some wheels and metal work/axles off Richard.

On another note, those of you that have used mobilty scooters for your toylanders, how much of the scooters have you used? axles? wiring? motors etc?  Or have you just utilised the motors? Still unclear as to wether or not to by one for a donor or not. I know Richard will be at the kit car show so might have to make a decision over what bits i'll need. Thanks in advance, john. :)

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #10 on: 05 September, 2011, 09:28:38 PM »
Anyway, it looks like this. Lots of measuring, re-measuring, cutting glueing and screwing lol. (i've still got one side shorter than the other too lol)




markh15

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #11 on: 05 September, 2011, 11:16:51 PM »
Hi Johnny77,

Talking to the boss (Richard) is always a good idea. He will put you straight on a lot of your questions.

Most of us using scooters as donors were on a tight budget, but if finances allow, then buying direct fitment parts from Richard make more sense, and makes for a quicker, simple build.

As for using a mobility scooter as a donor, it will depend quite alot on your mechanical / lateral thinking skills. Almost all of the oily bits from the scooter can be used, steering king-pins, transaxle, wiring etc. You will have to make / extend the central part of the front axle beam though, as they (scooters) are usually only about 24 inches wide, and the Toylander is around 27 inches.

It stands to reason that the better the scooter you acquire, the better it will perform, and most of us (me included) have gone for the 6 mph or better versions (4 - 8 mph).
The 'Class 3' scooters (4 - 8 mph) usually have front and rear lights, indicators, horn, reversing bleeper, and some even have hazzard warning lights! All this will then transfer neatly into your Toylander, giving loads of 'play value', and a lot less headaches when it comes to wiring!
Another advantage is the 'Regenerative braking' and 'auto parking' brake features, which are easier for the younger driver to master.

The transaxle will fit neatly into the motor compartment, and the diff will allow drive to each rear wheels (via chain drive) making turning under power more 'natural'.

Take a look at my build website, just click on the 'Globe' icon below my user name, and it will take you directly there. This will give you an idea as to some of the headaches I had.
In my defense, I was one of the first to try this conversion (is that right Richard?), and didn't have the resourse of this excellent website and it's very helpfull members to fall back on and ask 'daft' questions, I had to soldier on alone (serves me right for being a sm**t-arse)!

Hope this has helped (not to confuse) you even further,

Keep smiling,
Regards,
Mark.
(resident nutter)
« Last Edit: 05 September, 2011, 11:19:20 PM by markh15 »
Bloke with too much time on his hands!

johnny77

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #12 on: 28 September, 2011, 08:35:39 PM »
Well making some more slow progress, have made and fitted the aluminium wing corners, they weren't 100% true so i used some car body filler just to cover them over. (purple primer is just to cover over to see their shape) I need to order a bonnet off Richard, attatch the tailgate, attatch the sills and lower front crossmember and the tub is nearing finishing. I'll then need to seal it up. What's the best way to do this? roller? brush? spray? I take it i need to seal everywhere? How many coats? I'm thinking of spraying the tub with car paint, (high build primer will cover my imperfections lol) Any input welcome.  :)


multisync

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #13 on: 28 September, 2011, 08:53:12 PM »
Hi Johnny
There's nothing magic about getting a good finish, it's all down to preparation and hard work. The better the prep, the better the finish, whether you brush, roller,spray, or get it done professionally at your local body shop.
One thing to consider is that it is a toy! and it will get damaged! so it's always worth putting on a finish that can easily be touched up. 
You can get a super spray job done, but when your little test driver hits a wall, it'll scratch just as easy as a brush on job, and may be more difficult to touch up.
Best Wishes
Walter
Just a Big kid! I love toys! Collect Dinky's, build model planes and helis, etc

markh15

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Re: N00bie building toylander1
« Reply #14 on: 28 September, 2011, 09:14:22 PM »
Hi John,

Sealing the tub is a simple matter, and can be done quite cheaply. Buy a small (2.5 ltr) container of PVA from B&Q (or similar), then dilute this 50 / 50 with tap water. Stir well, and apply by any method you prefer, a 1" paint brush will get into all the corners, and a small roller (the kind for behind radiators) will soon have the tub covered.

Leave to dry overnight, then check the surface. You will probably find small specs of dust etc in the surface, sand these flat with 400 grit sand / wet or dry paper and then re-seal the tub.
This is to make sure you have coverage, just incase you have 'cut through' the sealer on any corners or sharp edges.
Lightly sand this coat (de-nib) again, taking care to sand gently on edges.

When you are satisfied with the surface, prime the tub with car primer either in 'rattle' cans or with a spray gun / compressor, what ever you're comfortable with.

Like Walter (multisync) says, the better the prep the better the finish. Brush / roller coverage means easy touch-ups, cans / spraying means headaches!

hope this has helped,
Regards,
Mark.
Bloke with too much time on his hands!