Archie's Toylander

[Gavin B]

Hi Mark,

I'm running standard Toylander sprockets from Richard which are 1/8th pitch.  I too have used a bicycle chain as my pals have a bike shop.  I ended up using a "half link" chain designed for single speed bikes with only a little wheel adjustment to allow you to get correct chain tension.  It can be shortened/lengthened by half a link at a time.  I found with a standard chain on my Toylander if I had the motors slid all the way forwards till they were almost touching the seat panel that the chains were still too long, and if I took a link out of the chains they were too tight even with the motors slid all the way back to the motor closing panel.  The only solution I could see was the "half link" chain which has allowed me get perfect chain tension with the motors in a fairly central position on the slots and give me room for fine adjustment.  Has anyone else had similar issues?  I probably have done something wrong somewhere along the lines to cause this!

Cheers,

Gavin

[Tombraider]

Gavin,
I have a mobility scooter transaxle driving sprockets but I found exactly the same thing - remove 1 link and the chain is too tight, put it back and it is way too loose. Richard stocks 1/2 links for the standard chains as he has found the same and can't explain it either. I bought some of these from him but they didn't work for me either so I have a roller under the botom run of the chain which stops it from jumping off the sprockets. In fact, even this didn't work on one side so on the other I made a curved chain support out of aluminium and the chain just runs along it. It's always on the loose (non-driven) side, even when the vehicle is running in reverse so hopefully it won't wear out too quickly. I did wonder about sprung loaded bicycle chain tensioers and this would have been my next solution but I couldn't find any at a resonable (ie very cheap) price at the time.
Regards
Mike 

[brian]

You really can't use any method of chain tensioning device that incorporates a spring like a cycle derailleur because of the need to drive in reverse.  This would wind up all the spring tension before any movement of the car and probably throw the chain off the sprocket.

The only method of tensioning that will work is a solidly fixed device that has no spring content.

In the thread," My grandpa's got a new project" there are pictures of the method I used to overcome this problem in the steering reduction chain gear set I devised for my grandsons T2, this could equally apply to the motor chain tensioning.





Regards,

Brian.

[Gavin B]

Hi all,

Been finished Archie's Toylander for a couple of months but been to busy playing in it to take photo's!  Here are a few of the finished article.  A big thank you to all of you for the hints, tips and support along the way.  It has been hugely enjoyable building the Toylander and even better seeing the fun Archie and his pals have in it.

Best regards,

Gavin

[Helidoc67]

Excellent images.

How did you simulate the rivets around the petrol cap?

Venk

[Gavin B]

Thanks Venk,

The rivets round the petrol cap are just small pop rivets which I used to rivet the aluminium trim to the body.  They were only 7mm or so long so
long.

Cheers,

Gavin

[Richard]

What a magnificent job Gavin.

A Toylander to be proud of and no mistake.

BW's
Richard

[Helidoc67]

Gavin, read one of your earlier posts about the 1/2 link and the engine positions.  I had similar issues with the engines all the way forward and there still ebing too much slack and eventually used a shim under the engine mount and now I seem to have the drivetrain issue sorted out.  Richard kindly shipped out a half link, but we opted for the shim first to see if that would work, had it not I would have had to use the 1/2 link.

I think the whole issue of alignment of chain would have been eaiser if the wheel and sprocket were not welded together.  BUT i am sure there are good reasons for keeping the design the way it is.

Venk

[Richard]

General point on chain length and motor fixing from feedback received:
If the rear axle is in the correct position according to the dimensions; A 17 side plate and one spring link chain fitted; the motor fitted into motor mounting plate, the next move is to clamp the motor unit into position, pull chain tight now mark and drill mounting holes and the chain will fit correctly and there will be sufficient adjustment. If the motor is aligned with the centre of the cut out in the motor panel / inner wing and fixing points drilled at this point then the chain will more often than not require a half link or a plate underneath.

[BensDad]

Hi, have you made the petrol cap or are these available? Nice touch with the rivets