TL-2 build in USA

[markh15]

Hi Venk,

I wouldn't get too worried about the 2mm difference at this stage. See how the tub comes together, and then either sand back or adjust accordingly.

The side panel extension pieces butt up against the rear panel, and (on mine) are about 5mm short of the bulkhead / windscreen vent panel.
This turned out to be fortunate, as the nuts for the 'windscreen hinge' ironwork would have fouled otherwise.

Now that you have the major holes in place you should be able to proceed again, as the side extension piece can be altered when it's ready for installation.

As for the metalwork for the dummy door handles, I'm sure your buddy will do a fine job.
I can't remember how I made mine, I think I bent them around a wheel hub or something similar. I have cut the door opening out completely and screwed the handles to the inside of the panel....



I added a little detail in the form of the lock barrel in the top corner. This was made from a 12mm long piece of 20mm dowel which was screwed to the door panel from the inside.

The back of the handle is hidden on the inside by a dummy door panel....



cut to the size of the door and painted satin black.

The metal trim around my filler cap / rear lights etc were made when funds were low and I needed something to occupy myself.

Keep going, you'll get there eventually,

Regards,
Mark.

[Ant-G]

Hi Venk
Apologies if my post wasn't clear.
On our car the inner wings were about 275mm
So, we just brought the rest of the tub (side panels, rear panel) up slightly compared to the floor to be inline.
To be honest, you can loose 2mm anywhere.........
(If you look at a full size Toylander Landrover, the body tolerances are enormous!!)

Regards
Anthony

[Helidoc67]

Question:

Does the hole made to simulate the PTO on the rear panel need to be cut all the way thru?

Or can you use a forstner bit and say cut down 8mm?

Venk

have my side panels done and now will work to get the rear panel attached

[markh15]

Hi Venk,

If you have a 'Forsner' bit, then an 8mm recess will be fine. I had to cut mine out completely (as I only had hole saws) and then glue and pin a piece of 4mm ply across the back to close up the hole.

Hope this helped,

Regards,
Mark.

[Helidoc67]

Thanks Mark for the reply;  I thought I was making some progress with the tailgate/ rear panel tonight but I found that I had cut the rear panel poorly.

The right side is 8mm wider than the left side, though the overall width is still correct.

So my thought is:  widen the hole for the tailgate by 8 mm , making the hole 404 mm instead of 396 mm.  each column would end up being marginally narrower.( 355 mm if my memory serves me correctly)

My tailgate is already cut and measures 390 mm, this would give 7mm around the sides ?? too much- should I just cut out another tailgate?

The other issue is that by widening the tailgate hole the columns (rear panel uprights) will rest entirely against the  batten, rather than over lap with the plywood of the rear inner wing ? potential problem, or nothing to worry about.

Am certainly learning alot from my mistakes!!

Glad I have help!!

[markh15]

Hi Venk,
Looking at your pictures I recall having a similar problem when building Harvey's car. The slight overlap of the rear inner wing panels allows the tailgate to close into the opening without 'overshooting' into the rear compartment, reducing the pressure on the anitluce fittings.

I think I widened the rear panel (as you suggest), and made a new tailgate to fit the apperture, but it's almost four years ago now, and the mind is clouding over!

A new tailgate is the smartest option, as it will require less work (and cursing) than making the larger rear panel,

Keep going,
Regards,
Mark.

[Helidoc67]

 

When I looked at my rear panel,  i realised that my slopes were not symmetrical, and so being a perfectionist I have cut out a template from 5mm plywood and will use my router to cut out a new rear-panel.  I double checked all the measurements again this time.

I think cutting out a new tale gate would have worked but definately could not have used my original tail gate as the 7 mm gap , left a lot to be desired!!


am getting there...



 will start on the fuel cap tomorrow

V

[Helidoc67]

 

Am putting the side panels on and was able to get a consultation from Ant-G via skype video.  Very helpful... THANK YOU.

I am experiencing an issue whereby one side panel appears too long and the other too short, despite both being identical lengths.

the fronts are perfectly aligned.  i released the tension on some of the screws between the batten and the rear panel ( on the side that was too long (apparently)) and tried to tighten the other side.

When i tried clamping with squares, i could get the ? too long side to fit, but there is still a small 1mm gap on the other side.  i do not think I need to worry about that.

What i did not notice was that the rear panel may have a little bow in it- not noticable to the naked eye, but with a wixey angle guage, it seems as if there is a one degree difference from the center of the rear panel when compared to the edges.

Though this is not ideal, are there any problems with proceeding with marking battens and fixing with screws, or would I be better off just removing some material from the long side panel and plan on filling the gap with bondo on the short side ( but use the batten to make a good connection between the rear panel and the "short" side panel?

i did take Ant-G's advice and secured the front using a 2x4 across the inner panels and drilling temporarily into the batten

Venk

[Helidoc67]

From the photo you can see my rear panel appears to be a fraction higher at the shoulder than the side panel.



Should I   1. leave alone, as this is symetrical and is how it is meant to be

or            2, trim away the extra on the rear panel so it is flush with the shoulder of the side panel

Also in the tail gate I over shot some nails ( from the inside) so the bradnail came through on the surface?  What is the best remedy?



Advice appreciated.

[Helidoc67]

Progress is being made:

Since I used plywood, i am going to need to do a lot of prep work.

I cut some MDF to simulate the air- intake flaps under the windscreen, we will see if this cosmetic modification will work out.

Venk


CLose up:

[Tombraider]

Venk,
You should profile the tailgate to match the sides of the body, as you have stated in 2).
I would remove the nails and fill with car body filler (you'll have to use this stuff at some point anyway before painting to fill the gaps between panels etc).
Regards
Mike

[Helidoc67]

  thank you Mike.

I appreciate the advice, I have been filling holes as I go., so will take out those nails and fill them, the glue attaching the backer to the tailgate will have dried by now.

Will trim the shoulder of the rear panel, thanks for the confirmation!

Made the simulated door handles today, starting to pick up momentum!!  Also cleaned up the metal parts, have to go through all the plastic bags I bought from RLT to find all the hinges etc.




 

[Helidoc67]

Filled the holes and trimmed the side panels

Have turned my attention to the bonnet and read a phrase in the manual about using 4mm packing material?

Is this where it needs to be?

Did you put it in the middle to keep it hidden?

[Ant-G]

Hi Venk
The 4mm packer is just a temporary spacer. It is to ensure that there is sufficient gap so that when you open the bonnet it doesn't rub on the wings.
So what you show in your pictures looks ok - just mark the hinge position and then remove the packer.

Anthony

[Helidoc67]

OK, so it does not need to remain in place;  Thanks that helps alot!!

Silly me!!

Venk