Toyland 2 build...

[geekygrilli]

Hi Guys

Just started my build tonight. Time spent so far: 1hr 12mins, which includes moving my tools from my van to my shed etc!
I have cut the side, inner wing and front panel templates, ready to router around tomorrow night.




My build will use a mobility scooter rear axle and drive, possibly with a live axle, but not sure yet.
It will have front suspension, similar to Chitty, with a centre pivot, therefore the front end of the chassis will be different from the plans.

I am going to minimise the use of batoning, instead I will router grooves in joining parts and glue and screw/pin it all together. Wing tops and side panels will be half-lapped together.
I will be using this glue, its amazing stuff: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesives+Sealants/Wood+Adhesive+PVA/5+Minute+Polyurethane+Wood+Adhesive+750g/d180/sd3198/p93568
I am taking inspiration from the Lotus Elise chassis!

I have already changed the shape of the front panel. I know what I've done is not right, but I thought the front of the bonnet looked a bit 'flat'.
There is a chap on my road who has a Series IIb, and he told me that strictly speaking my build will be a mixture of all different Series', which I don't think he is very happy about!!


erm, thats it so far, any questions, please do ask.

Christopher

[geekygrilli]

Cut and routered sides, bulkhead, grille, floor etc...

All slots together nicely; I may well add glue blocks where I deem they're required.

[Richard]

Hi Geeky Grilli,

When the cars were put through the official testing house it was requested we put a little extra batten in place so I will be interested to hear how you get on but must say we don't recommend this method of building our vehicles. As an engineer I am sure you can understand my concern especially as this site is read by a great deal of people and is often taken, unfortunately, as gospel. We have experimented with close finger joints using ply as the material which as you know has greater lateral strength than compressed board, but even then applied strengthening from an epoxy fillet in every corner.
Best wishes
Richard

[Tombraider]

If I'm reading the photo correctly, he has screwed into the mdf from inside the bonnet. I put the screws in the other way round in the floor ie they were screwed into the battens which I think would be much stronger. I know most of you will think the strength is in the glued joint though and the screws are superfluous after gluing.
Regards
Mike

[geekygrilli]

Hi Richard

I completely understand your stand-point. I did initially write a get-out clause in my post, but the post disappeared the next morning, so I re-wrote it, but forgot to add that bit in again, sorry.

Anyway, what I am doing is completely my idea, and if it fails its my fault! I'm just trying to add some of my own design to the build. If it fails I won't go shouting about it to anyone!

I must say, the plans are brilliant, much better than I imagined they'd be, all my fellow engineering brothers have been impressed too. I'll be in touch with you sometime soon to get some wheels and tyres (I'll bring my welder up for you to have a look at too).

Tombraider - planning on not using any battens, just glue and screw through panels into the edge of others. I don't mind filling the c/s screw heads that may be seen.

Hope this is all OK

Best regards

Christopher

[Tombraider]

Christopher,
I have made several items (throttle box, steering column housing for indicator stalk and rear light covers) and for these small items, I just screwed into the mdf. In almost every case, even though I drilled quite generous holes for the screws, the mdf tended to split. Therefore, I'd strongly recommend sticking to the plans and using battens. Why wouldn't you use them? They don't cost too much, they add strength. The only reason I could think of was asthetics; ie it would be better if the inner rear wings were supported underneath the floor so the battens didn't show in the rear footwell but that's the only criticism I could find. All the rest are hidden from view.
Regards
Mike 

[geekygrilli]

Hi Mike

Thanks for your words... I have a bit of experience in this field; designing, building and putting into manufacture this furniture:- http://www.tomschneider.co.uk/ where the build method was pretty much the same as what I'm doing, the only difference is that furniture is stationary, not dynamic!

I may well add the battens, but only where required.
I'm using 3.5 x 40mm screws with a short 3mm pilot and c/s.

That said - it still just my idea and it may well fail. I don't mind failing, so long as I learn something along the way!

Best regards


Christopher

[multisync]

Hi Christopher
As an inveterate experimenter, model maker and hobbyist, you have my admiration in doing things your own way, and I wish you every success.
For someone with the necessary skills, and accurate machining ability, using modern adhesives, it may well be a suitable way forward. The strength in any accurately, well  made, box type construction is immense as I'm sure you are aware, but for most people reading this forum, sticking to the construction method in the plans is the surest way to get a safe and reliable result. Basically my comments are not aimed at you, or anyone else with the necessary skills, but simply a bit of a warning to to the inexperienced.
I'm interested in the glue, I've not come across polyurethane glue before. Can any excess be easily removed when wet, like PVA? Is it waterproof once set?
Keep us posted as you go
Best Wishes
Walter

[geekygrilli]

Hi Walter

Thanks for your encouragement, its much appreciated.

The polyurethane glue is easily cut off when dried, but can also be wiped off with a damp cloth. I like to srape it off with a chisel. It only takes 5 minutes to dry, and because it expands it fills the gaps too. Brilliant stuff in my opinion.

On another project I just butted the 12mm MDF onto another panel (to form a 'T' section) glued and screwed. After 10 minutes I realised I made a mistake and had to disassemble to joint. Instead of breaking the joint it delaminated the panel. I think this proves how strong the stuff is.

I've now made the curved wingtops from strips of 12mm MDF and glued in place. I've given it all a quick spray with undercoat (just normal Leyland stuff, thinned down with white spirit). Its only had one go with filler so far.

[electric4fun]

your wife and children should be very proud of you... so much dedication and love .. nice build , good idea too ! 


best regards,
Luc

[multisync]

Hi
Thats my kind of toy!!
Lateral thinking!
My wife uses an invalid scooter sometimes and I have a trailer for it made from half of another scooter, we take it to the occasional steam rally or agricultural show and ride it in tandem, it causes a few wide eyed looks, so I can imagine the reaction to your contraption. (There's a pic of it somewhere on the forum.)
What are you using as a coupling? I used a rose joint on a simple turned pin with a washer and split pin to lock it on.
Back to the point about the glue. As it's gap filling that's a major advantage, PVA relies on close fitting parts and won't work if there's a gap. It sounds like it's similar in properties to Cascamite without the disadvantage of having to mix it.
Best Wishes
Walter

[multisync]

Hi again
I just thought I'd post thispic again as it refers to the previous post.

One of my grand daughters driving me around on the double buggy, it stops 'em arguing about who drives the Toylander.
Regards
Walter

[geekygrilli]

Thanks guys

She does love the scooter, but I think she'd prefer me to make cups of strawberry leaf tea, give her foot rubs and generally pay her more attention in the evenings!

I did a practice school-run last night in the cover of darkness, a normal 23 minute walk was completed in 11 miniutes  

The coupling is a rose joint/ball joint. Its fixed to the push chair with an M8 nyloc. I do need to make it more easily detachable, but it'll do for now - until I come up with a neat final solution.

We had a couple of mobility scooters and my then 3 year old and I used to race around the garden - she learn all about hitting the apex and straight-lining the chicane it was brilliant fun. Should be a video here of her during qualifying!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fc0375X6zU

The glue is quite amazing really, and the fact that it sets properly in just 10 minutes is beneficial to a quick build. Its not cheap, but I use a lot of it for work, and the time saved outweighs the cost. I would warn that its shelf life isn't too great; it always seems to go hard after 5 or 6 months.