Mini Toylander 2

[coupecoupe]

Hi Walter,

Have you made any further progress on 85% sized TL?

I too am looking at making one around this size and have heaps of questions.

Did you work from drawings?
If so, did you keep any measurments/templates?

Thanks
Ian

[coupecoupe]

Walter...

Brushable seam sealer (used on automotive panels/seams before paining - usually seen inside the boot/engine bay) could be used on the rear of the bendy MDF panel.

I've used this on the inside of a very old cracked and leaking toilet cystern and it worked well.
It remains slightly flexible and can be painted over.

Ian

[multisync]

Hi Ian
I havn't been on the site lately and only just saw your query. I didn't produce any drawings but worked on the basis of about 85% to get the basic side shape. The width was dictated by the axle I wanted to use. Generally I made each part to fit the model as I progressed. I did try to maintain the original distance from pedal to the seat so that it didn't become too small for the child. This makes the rear seating area a little smaller. 
If you want any detail dimensions, let me know and I will measure up, and post some drawings.
The base is made in two parts, one forward and one rearward of the rear axle, this allows the transaxle unit to sit lower and protrudes below the floor, the gap is spanned with some 1in sq box section, which also supports the motor unit.
Keep posting and you may give me the enthusiasm to make some progress.
The problem is the grandkids are growing up faster than I am building, and are growing out of it already!

Take Care
Walter

[coupecoupe]

Hi Walter,
Thanks for getting back to me...

Any info (drawings/photo's/measurements etc) would be appreciated if you get chance.

The wheelchair motors i have are quite large, but benefit from the fact that i can set them to whatever distance apart i need to.
What wheels did you use, and where did you get them?

Thanks Walter
Ian

[multisync]

Hi Ian
I have fished out some notes I made when I started this build, it's a little while ago so I've forgotten a lot of it. I've also measured it up, as it is, so I'll get you some dimensions.
You need to read through my original posts to get the basic concept, but my idea was to reduce the model to 85% of the original design.
The size came about because I was given a "scrap" scooter, which I thought it was a good basis for a Toylander. The rear axle width was 24 inches to the outside of the tyres.
A standard Toylander is 28.5 inches wide, so a bit of simple mathematics and I found my axle width was 85% of full size so the ratio was set for me.
You shouldn't consider going any smaller as there wouldn't be enough leg room for the child. I have actually kept the drivers legroom at the expense of room in the rear, to avoid this problem.
You'll need to follow the full size drawings to see what goes where, but once you've got the basic floorpan made you can measure that and make the parts to fit.
If you take measurements from the plan, reduce them to 85%, but double check with the build as I have rounded some of the dimensions up or down a bit for convenience.
 
                                Toylander 2          My Model   
Total Length                   61 ins              51.5 ins
Total Width                    28.5 ins           24 ins
Overall Wheel size           15 ins             12 ins   

As you can see the finished model will be about 10 ins shorter and 4 .5 ins narrower.
Note that there's room in a standard Toylander for two children in the front and one in the back. This won't be wide enough for two, and there's very little room in the back.
More a bit later
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Ian
Here's the drawing as promised.
If you measure up the original drawing and take 85% of the figures, you will see that it comes out roughly as my drawing (with a bit of artistic licence).
I made the seat riser and the rear inner wings 6 inches high, just as the original, so as not to be too low for the driver.

You will have to make up all the metal work to suit of course, but it's quite easy to reduce the sizes in the manual to suit your model. I hope it gives you a bit of a start, if you can make some sense of my ramblings!
Let me know if you want any other info.
By the way, where are you?
Get the timber in and make a start!
Only 99 more building days til Christmas!
Best Wishes
Walter

[coupecoupe]

Thanks Walter... they're great!
I'm in Liverpool.
Started clearing my garage ages ago and got in some hardboard to make templates (was actually intended for the attic for never made it that far!) - i got these while my dad still had his van.
I have 2 large bench units now wheels to use as my assembly point... but they're now stacked high with crap and everything that was stacked nicely now seems to be on the floor or benches.

I'll measure the mobility scooter i have to see if the width of the front axle would suit the new smaller TL - this will save me alot of fabrication work for now as the hubs are the same stud pattern as the elec wheelchair hubs/wheels.

Where did you get your wheels, are they attached by studs or secured by a pin on the ends of the axle etc?

Thanks for your help.... didn't even think of trying to get it build by xmas - great idea, will have to get started!!
Cheers Walter
Ian

[multisync]

Hi Ian
Oops sorry ............. forgot to tell you about the wheels.
Scooter wheels are made up of two sections, front and back. The front is a fancy cast wheel, while the back is a simple pressed steel job. These are bolted together and onto a hub.
I dismantled 8 of these wheels, threw away the cast part and reassembled them as 4 wheels with pressed steel fronts and backs s, and fitted them on the original hubs.
If you dismantle any scooter wheels TAKE CARE, you must let the air out first. It can be a messy job as they are  often filled with a rubber solution to stop punctures, but if you don't deflate them they will explode!
Take Care
Walter