Author Topic: Priming and Painting  (Read 939 times)

aosias

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Priming and Painting
« on: 25 April, 2010, 04:26:21 PM »
I am getting ready to fill and sand and then of course paint.  I know there are many different options for paint.  I am leaning towards having it sprayed but I was thinking I'd do the primer myself.  My question is what primer would be the best fit?  I want a spray on primer so can I use a regular automotive primer from a rattle can or is there something else I should use instead?  My other thought was to use Kilz primer in a rattle can.  I want something that will seal the body and give me a good base for the top coat. 

I don't have access to a sprayer that is used with a compressor, kind of intimidates me really, hence the rattle can. I figure with the rattle can I can get spray on without having to use the big set up.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Alex

brian

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #1 on: 25 April, 2010, 05:09:02 PM »
Hello Alex.

If you have built from MDF, you need to seal the body tub.  You can buy MDF sealer, but diluted PVA glue does the job just as well. Just dilute you PVA with water so it looks like skimmed milk and paint it all over the tub, two coats along all the raw edges. When the sealer has dried, give a light sanding with fine sandpaper to smooth the slight lifting of the fibres that the sealer will have promoted, then recoat all the edges, and gently sand these again.

You are now ready to paint.

I handpainted mine, I used standard household white undercoat, and sanded down when it was dry, then I applied two coats of red gloss paint.

The gloss I used was yacht paint, but I think this was an overindulgence on my part, any good quality gloss from the major manufacturers would do.  The underside I painted black gloss of no particular brand.

If you go down the rattlecan route, then after the initial sealing, the standard Grey primer and a gentle rub down followed by as many coats as you  decide you require of the colour of your choice should do the trick.

I would estimate you will require at least two, possibly three cans of your Finnish colour, you might get away with one of primer.

If you have built from plywood, you will have a lot of grain filling to do on the on the flats as well as the edges before you can start to lay down any paint.

Regards,

Brian.
Brian.

Geriatric kitcar builder.

marky

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #2 on: 25 April, 2010, 08:28:44 PM »
I'm at the prep stage of my build and I will definately be using the brush / roller method of application. Any spray from an aerosol will mean the thickness of paint is very thin as most of the spray will evaporate (and therefore require many many coats to build the thickness). Imperfections will be much easier to hide with a few good thick coats of brushed or rolled paint. Just my views.....

CycloneMike

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #3 on: 25 April, 2010, 10:03:09 PM »
I can't give any advice on primer, but for the top coat if you want to consider using a roller there is loads of advice here.
http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Bodywork_and_Glass_Roller_painting
Yes I know it is about painting rusty metal vans but the process claims a perfectly smooth finish is available using a roller and then fine sanding. Just a thought, no reason why it couldn't be adapted for a TL.

paulr

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #4 on: 25 April, 2010, 10:14:12 PM »
 :) We went down the same route as Brian and used pva glue to seal the entire tub several times followed by household primer in grey and then DIY ordinary gloss paint which was brush painted on. Several reasons for this route was cost, ability to repaint damage easily, good thickness/depth of coverage. In all we only used 3 tins of paint to complete the Toylander and still have a bit left.  Also the painter (wife) painted indoors overwinter and prefers using gloss rather than spray cans. Hope this helps.
PaulR and MrsR   
Mad on miniatures steam and now toylanders

aosias

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #5 on: 26 April, 2010, 01:02:13 AM »
Would the primer not provide the seal for the MDF?  I guess I was assuming a good primer would seal the wood and then I would just need to topcoat it with the color.

The PVA and water is that just a diluted wood glue?

Thanks,
Alex

multisync

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #6 on: 26 April, 2010, 08:21:14 PM »
Hi Alex
I used MR mdf and mdf primer sio I had a good flat surface, and then then sprayed with automotive paint in aerosols.
If I did it agaain I would go for brush painting, because the minor damage would be so much easier to repair.
If it's going to get used, it'sd going to get damaged!
Best wishes
Walter
Just a Big kid! I love toys! Collect Dinky's, build model planes and helis, etc

paulr

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #7 on: 26 April, 2010, 10:49:10 PM »
Hi Alex, the pva glue (white wood glue diluted down) soaks deeper into the MDF but the wood primer tends to sit on the surface and not sink in so much. When you sand it back you can quickly rub your wood primer away. Good luck with the painting its all part of the learning and building curve.
PaulR and MrsR :) 
Mad on miniatures steam and now toylanders

markh15

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #8 on: 27 April, 2010, 01:01:53 AM »
Hi Alex,

My tub was built from 12 mm ply, so as Brian says, I had alot of filling and sanding to complete.

Diluted PVA adhesive soaks in quickly, and dries with a slight sheen. Again as Brian mentions, it lifts the surface fibres of the MDF slightly, so light sanding with 400's grade sand paper between coats is needed.
 
I went a similar route to you when I painted Harvey's T2, started with automotive 'Grey primer' from a 'rattle can', but used three 500 ml cans to cover the body inside and out.

I then used a good quality 'Exterior grade' gloss paint, applied with small foam rollers and a 1" brush for the tight corners and angles, again rubbing the paint down (lightly) with 400's grade 'Wet-or-Dry' between coats, to take out any dust / imperfections for a smooth finish.

As Walter points out, any damage sustained through play can then be easily 'touched in' without major prep-work.

There is no quick method when it comes to the paint, and this is probably the longest and most tedious job on the car.
But the better the prep, the better the finish, so be patient and it will pay dividends!

Good Luck,
Best Regards,
Mark.
Bloke with too much time on his hands!

coupecoupe

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Re: Priming and Painting
« Reply #9 on: 09 July, 2010, 12:42:43 PM »
Hi
I'd use 2pack (automotive) filler primer (mix with activator and apply with a household radiator roller)

This will cover any minor imperfections and will need flatting back, but you'll get a glass like finish for your top coat if you use rattle cans or a spray gun.

2 pack paint it harder wearing so should hopefully last longer.

I'm pretty sure cellulose/rattle can primer doesn't prevent moisture penetration, whereas 2pack does.

Even using 2 pack top coat with a rolle, you could still acheive a good finish by flatting and polishing once hard.