WBP Plywood.

[CycloneMike]

Just a word of warning to others. I used exterior grade WBP ply from B&Q for my TL2 project. I chose this because I couldn't find WR MDF on my doorstep and B&Q have a big saw which helped with the cutting.
I now wish I hadn't bothered. Although I selected the smoothest piece of wood from the middle of the stack, when it was cut I found it was full of voids. No matter I thought, they will fill and I carried on. After two months much of the surface ply is delaminating. The Base board has also warped, despite being stored flat and in the dry. When I came to fit the sides yesterday, the base is so far out, I can't twist it back straight, as it sounds like it starting to crack. During the course of the afternoon, the ply which I bought yesterday and cut for the side panels has also gone from flat to banana shaped.
I am gutted because it was just starting to look like a TL and as you will all know this takes some time and effort. So today I will complain and then start again using MR MDF.
Regards,
Mike.

[brian]

That's a rotten bit of luck Mike, I would bend a few ears as well.  It's a pity that B&Q don't do the w.r. MDF 'cos the big saw is deffinately a bonus if you work it all out beforhand.

Good luck with the replacement.

Regards,

Brian.

[markh15]

Hi Mike,
I too bought my ply from B & Q, and the sheets were also slightly warped.
It's the way that they store it, on two small 'stillages' just in from either end of the boards.

I had a similar problem with the base of the TL, and it took me a while to figure it out.
I eventually made a steel frame from 1" x 1" tube, which I was going to use as a chassis, and screwed the base plate to this until assembly was completed. This sorted the problem, and held everything square and flat.

I then found that the tub was rigid, so did away with the heavy frame-work and continued the build as per the manual.

I think it's down to how the timber is stored, even after it's been cut, but not everyone has the space to store flat, so it's stood on end until needed. As most of these projects are built over the dark months, the air is damp, so the timber is prone to warping. Even 'WR' MDF will suffer swelling in these conditions.

You might have better luck with the timber now, as the weather is picking up, but don't give up, you'll get there in the end.

Best Regards,
Mark.

[CycloneMike]

Thank you both for the encouragement.
I have written it off to experience, re directed my anger and just got on and started again. Its much easier and quicker the second time and MDF is much easier to work with (IMO). Virtually completed tub in just one (long) day. Project back on!
Regards,
Mike.

[brian]

Very well done Mike, I think I would still take the worst twisted piece back to B&Q though and try and get some money back.

Regards,  Brian.

[jock]

The saw in B&Q I agree is very handy. I have had ordinary mdf ripped in the past but I remember buying some moistour resistant chipboard flooring and they were not allowed to cut it because it was moistour resistant, (apparently the dust is more harmfull). Perhaps if they stocked MR mdf they would not be allowed to cut it.
It may just be the B&Q I went to or the assistant couldn't be bothered.

[max]

well your Lucky you could find an assistant, the spotty faced tw*ts that work in my b+q hide as soon as someone gets close enough to dare chance a  question.
max.

[K one W one]

Hi there,
, Fellow builders of little landrovers I too got caught out using, timber/plywood. There doesn't seem to be anything like treated MDF in New Zealand so I went for h3 treated construction ply this is supposed to have one clean side,when you look at its not to bad however when it comes to pre-paint prep its a hells own job to get the surface right.
but after much sanding 3 undercoats and 4 primer coats the surface is almost as smooth as MDF,so the lesson learnt from this exercise is use MDF and apply a good weather sealer or very expensive marine ply?

Regards
Allan