Battery drain.

[max]

do you think im going about mounting the motor the right way?. i am going to put a frame in to strenthen the inner wings and hold the motor in place. because of the size im going to cut the seat shorter so there is more of a well in the back and put 2 disk brakes on the ends of the motor (mini moto one) im not sure about the hand brake yet maybe the one from the scooter might be adapted.
ive still got lots in my head to do but not the know-how to carry it out!!! ill keep reading!!
cheers
max.

[markh15]

Hi Max,
All I can say for certain is this, you have the advantage of this forum with all of the members and builders helping out with problems.
When I built Harvey's car it wasn't available, so I had to 'Fly Blind' as it were, when I used a Scooter transaxle. Not even Richard had seen one, so he couldn't help much.

There are no 'Hard and Fast' rules when adapting a scooter system.  The only thing I can see from the photo, is how do you plan to tension the chain to the drive wheels?

Although this is a minor hiccup, and not impossible to solve, it could come back to bite you in the future, if you don't plan for it now.

You might find that Mini-Moto disks won't fit into the space you have at the front of the wheel well, where the axle exits, so get measurements / sizes first, before you commit to cash!

I would try and clear your head of all un-necessary modifications, and concentrate on the basic build for the time being. Otherwise I can see you running into major headaches in the future, I know.

I layed out Harvey's car the same as you (there's a picture in the T2 section of the gallery), following the scooters original format, but I didn't gain any space in the rear tub area, but I can slide the transaxle back and forth to tension the chains.

One thing I could suggest, if you want more space in the rear of the car (and we're only talking a few inches here), is mount the motor above the axle, rather than behind.
Walter has done this (to great effect), the drawback is, the floor below the transaxle has to be modified (for clearance), and the seat raised slightly to clear.

Following this modification, the car will have more space in the rear tub, but a step behind the seat base.

It's a matter of 'Horses for Courses' I'm afraid, but try the K.I.S.S. approach (Keep It Simple Sunshine), and you won't go far wrong.

Hope this has helped,
Best Regards,
Mark.

P.S. If you click on the 'Globe' icon below my user-name (top left), it will take you to my build website. Have a read through this, and you will see some of the problems I had with the conversion.

[multisync]

Hi Max
Glad you got the brake thing sorted, I thought 500 ohms would be about right, so thats a step forward.
I am making a car with a similar drive unit to the one you show in the pictures. I have used the original steel brackets to clamp the axle onto a piece of box section and screwed this to the floor. I was a bit concerned tht the torque of the motor might be too much for the fixing, if just mounted directly in the mdf.
As long as there's no movement in the axle fixing, your method should be OK. If you look at Models/Custom/Mini Toylander2 and you'll see the pics of my version. They don't show all the mounting but it'll give you the idea.
I'm not sure if it matters really but I was also concerned to get the motor unit the right way up. In my Toylander2 the motor leaks oil through the filler, if mounted other than upright.
Regards
Walter

[brian]

Hello Max.

One cautionary note.  I see you have slit the side frame from the top to quite near the bottom.  Make sure you fit a piece of wood or MDF across and above the axles, screwed to the side panels, to reinstate the strength, or you may find the chassis bending in the middle.

You may have this well in hand, but better safe than sorry.

Regards,

Brian

[max]

BIG problem!!
having noticed that their is still a battery drain i took the motor apart and the yellow resitor/whatever thing is burnt out!! it seams to be about 3/4 " long with a seperate resister running parallel to it. because it is burnt out how do i get a replacement as i dont want to have to get new motors

help!!
thanks
max

[multisync]

Hi Max
You're having some bad luck there!
It sounds like the thing that's burnt out is a suppressor to stop radio interference. I don't think it would cause a high current drain though, and I can't offer help in a replacement. If you could post a picture it may help someone identify it.
It sounds as if there may be a good reason why this motor unit became available to you in the first place, perhaps the previous owner was having problems. It may be better to cut your losses and look for an alternative!
Best of Luck
Walter

[max]

During the course of the day driving around London I usually have a good bit of time to "doss" so I popped in to a motor rewinders and spoke to a helpfull chap who was smoking outside who gave me the whole run down on the motor, what he said was throw the offending part away I dont need it and take the motor to him, small drink job done! While under the pretence of being at work I phoned around and have a local man who fixs/repairs and scraps mobility scooters coming around tomorrow night to look at what I'm making and is going to help me out with spares so today its chin up!!!! I'm now going out to the garage to continue as Christmas is coming and the kids need their car!
Thanks for the help gents
Max

[max]

sat is the day!!!
on sat there is a freind of a freind coming around to sort out the electics,but since then i have filled the little car ,fitted all the wheels and wired up a dash and volt meter and cleaned the garage!!!( a mission in its self).so on sat this bloke is coming and if he cant sort it then ill be banging on richards door for his bit's!!!. after seeing the photos of the meeting on sunday i am wondering if there are any plans for a meting in herts/ london just after christmas?

[max]

today i was given to try a invacare auriga. this has sat in a work shop for a year. its like new with the batterys shot. has anyone got any experiance with using these???. i put other batterys in and it went like a good one.
questions!!!
1/ will i have problems with the wireing regards to the dash
2/ will i be able to split the potermeter to allow for making forward/backwards
3/should i keep the onboard charger
 any help as normal would be great!!!
max.
ps other scooter in the skip!!!!!

[markh15]

Hi Max,

About for the Invacare scooter, I don't know of anyone using this type, but hey, there may be someone out there, or you might just be the pioneer we're looking for!

As for the Dash conversion, what's the one on the scooter like? Is it the newer 'touch pad' type?

I recall another thread on this subject, and I think the outcome is favourable, the 'membrain' switches can be substituted for toggle type ones, it will just require a little wire tracing and patience.

I don't understand what you mean by 'Splitting' the Potentiometer? I converted mine into a gear selector, details of this are in my 'Hi to all' thread, or on my build website. Click on the 'Globe' icon below my username, and it'll take you there.

One or two other builders have gone for micro switches, or something similar. Whatever direction you choose, there will be someone on here to help you make the right (and easiest) decision to help you.

The onboard charger is your choice. If you can find somewhere suitable to mount it, why not? It would be good under the bonnet, so when the bonnet is closed and locked, little (curious) fingers can't touch it.

Hope you have more luck with this one,
Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[paulr]

  On our Toylander series1 the wiring from the battery to the under bonnet area goes though a little mod that we put in which is a transmission tunnel, keeps all wires out the way and then goes up the bulkhead inside the engine comparment before coming back out behind the dashboard dials.  The bonnet is held down by 2 black rubbery bonnet catch/holders also the weight of the spare wheel tends to stop little people from sticking fingers into places they dont need to be. Hope this helps somewhat.
regards
PaulR and Mrs PaulR

[markh15]

Hi Max,

I have fitted a false floor in the back of my T2. Under this is the wiring for the lights, the overload cut-out (the reset button is positioned in the 'Power Take Off' hole in the back panel) and Control box.

I know that some builders have fitted a false floor in the front to hide various modifications, so if you feel this is neccessary, why not?

It will look neater if you hide the wires, but will be a nightmare if 'running repairs' have to be done while you're out!

The complete dash idea is a good one, unless you're going for the 'Authentic' look.
The bonnet on Harvey's car is held down by a 6 mm, 60 mm long bolt.
I fitted a captive nut (which is designed for wood), and has small teeth on it to grip into the timber. I then made a bonnet stiffening rib, and rivetted and glued (Evostic) this to the front of the bonnet, about 3 inches back from the edge. The bolt threads through the nut, and into a hole in the rib, securing the bonnet. Hope that makes sense?

It depends how curious the kids are!

Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[brian]

Ditto to Mark's description of the bonnet fixing method on my build.

A perusal of the build manual might also show you how this method works.

Regards,

Brian.

[multisync]

Hi
I too have done something similar for a bonnet catch, although mine has a spring loaded plunger instead of a bolt, but you may like to know that construction adhesive, such as Gripfill or No Nails, will make a good bond onto the alluminium bonnet, to hold the front rib in place.
Regards
Walter