new to this!!!!

[max]

HI all !!
Tonight i picked up my plans !.
 my plans are simple build the body then see if my mobilty scooter is compatibile!!. sounds easy apart from this is my first time i've tryed to make a kit car and im about as mechanically minded as a house brick!!!. so if you's dont mind me picking your brains every other day i would appreciate it.
before i go and start cutting the mdf is there anything i should bare in mind about useing a mobilty scooter?
thanks
max

[brian]

Hello Max and welcome to the forum.

I am not going to repeat all the do's and dont's for building, and I can't help you with the mobility scooter donor option as I did not go down that route, but one piece of advice I can offer you.

Please please, do read the posts on the forum before doing anything, and I mean anything. 

I know you will be dying to get on with the build, but the advice that is sprinkled amongst these pages is extremely helpfull, will save you money, and should result in a build you will be proud of.

Regards,

Brian.

[brian]

Hello again Max.

Another point I forgot to make.  You do not say which model you are going to build, can I suggest that you put all your build notes under the appropriate model forum, Pick a title, or even use the one that you have opened with, and post everything you write to do with your build under that post heading.

if you have a query that is prompted by something you read in another members build notes, post it into your build notes, everyone reads every post that is put on the forum so you will still get a reply to your query.

One last thing, if you have a query, ask for help.  The only daft question is the one you wished you had asked but did'nt.

Regards,

Brian.

[markh15]

Hi Max, and Welcome,

Brian's advice is quite sound, read through the forum posts, and the build manual until you are confident, then you can start to proceed with the cutting out of the panels.
There is loads of advice and tips through-out the forum on the pitfalls, and as Brian says, don't rush as this will end with expensive mistakes.

Most of us on here have built these as 'Winter Projects', and they have taken, on average, about six months to complete.

I built mine (Harvey's) from a mobility scooter, as did Walter (Multisync), and the best advice I can give you in regards to this is, buy the scooter before cutting out the Rear Inner Wings, as the positioning of the Transaxle is markedly different to the positioning of the Wheelchair motors that Richard uses!

If you do start building before you get the scooter, and this is acceptable, just screw the panels together temporarily, DON'T glue them, until you are quite sure of the placement of the scooter parts. This way, you can dismantle the tub to make changes, without struggling or serious damage, as wood glue holds pretty firm once set, as one or two of us can bear witness to.

You might find my build website useful reading, just click on the 'Globe' icon below my forum name (markh15) at the top left of the reply window, and this link will take you straight there.

Take your time, and above all have fun doing it, any more questions, just ask.

Regards,
Mark.

[bill shuter]

Hi Max, you've had all the best advice, but certainly I would recommend getting scooter first, which I didn't. Meant some major alterations around rear axle area of tub. Hindsight is a wonderful thing!

[multisync]

Hi Max
Welcome
I built my Toylander using a mobility scooter drive system, but you should be aware that the scooter rear axle is probably narrower than the models wheelbase.
I added gears to the drive axle and used these to drive the rear wheels via chains, using wheels purchased from Toylander. This gave me the width that I needed and also overcame the problem of gearing.
If you simply fit larger wheels to the scooter axle you will have a higher gear all the time. If for example you double the wheel size, you will double the top speed, but reduce the power, and may have difficulty going up hills!
Using a scooter drive may not be quite as simple as it sounds unless you have some engineering expertise or assistance.
The scooter axle is likely to be wider than the rear inner wings so you really need to have the axle in place before you fit these panels or you'll have to do a lot of cutting and then strengthening after.
Having said all that its not a difficult build if you think ahead as you build, and theres plenty of help available if you need it.
Best Wishes
Walter

[brian]

Are you going for the Toylander land speed record?

What size motor is that?

Have you room for a pair of submarine batterries??

Can we get a clearer photo of the beast please, if you can lift it, with the Toylander of course, and get it in the day light to take a photo, I'll clear the Salt lake flats for you, I've gorrah big brush.

All in good fun, merry Christmas and regards from,

Brian.

[multisync]

Hi Max
Yes well..................
A couple of pics of my T2 following, but first a (not very good) drawing of the setup

The overall width at the sprockets is about 18 inches, and the overall width of the axle is about 20 inches.
The axle unit sits in two small wooden blocks on the floor panel, and is held down by  the original u-bolts.
I had to cut a square hole in the floor to get the motor unit low enough.
Pics when I get 'em loaded on photobucket.
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Again Max

At first sight your motor seems a bit too wide for the job. Compare it to my measurements to get an an idea of the size.
You can see the relative positions in the picture, taken at the drivers side, stood by the rear wheel.
I have put a length of masking tape on the chain to make it stand out in the photo.

In the next pic you can just see the u-bolt holding the motor in place, just below the drive disengage lever.

I hope it all makes sense.
Regards
Walter

[brian]

Suitable "U" bolts available from TV ariel shops or exhaust fitters as a starter.

Regards,

Brian.

[max]

thank you gents once again.while you were posting i was out in the garage(freezing) and came up with the solution.it was simple.
attach 2 bits of angle to the motor with slots in, then bolt them to the floor hence allowing movement with the motor and simplicity on my brain. yous were right keep it simple.ill attach a simple drawing.
thanks again.

[brian]

Hi Max, make sure your two drive chains both have the same number of links, or as you tension the motor assembly, it will skew which will make the sprockets run at an angle.

Just a thought.

Regards,

Brian.

[jock]

Hope to start my tl2 build after the new year using a mobility scooter, I plan to cut and lengthen the long side of the scooter rear axle to get it to the right length. I then plan to unbolt the motor from the gearbox and mount the motor about 6" in front of the gearbox, I will use sprockets mounted to the motor and gearbox and a chain between them. This would gear it down for the larger wheels before the gearbox.

Can anyone see a problem with this method?

Jock

[multisync]

Hi Jock
That sound good, if you can cope with the engineering. I looked into reducing the gearing, by putting gears between the motor and gearbox on my TL2 but felt it was a bit much for me, but I think the concept is fine. I didn't need to cut down the length on mine as it was ideal as it came.
Regards
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Max
You seem to have the solution there, so best of luck with it.
I have the motor U-bolts on slots for adjustment, just as you suggest, but I found that the chain was going slack as the motor was sliding in it's mountings. The solution was a threaded bolt each side as an adjustable back stop and has solved the problem. You can just see one in the second picture above.
Best Wishes
Walter