Secret Project Unvieled

[ted-offroad]

Hi Mark,
Mine is the one on the right. The new one is the one on the left with the bonnet & spare wheel. It's fairly complete & looks like a nicely done model. The front axle needs a little attention but is complete & built like the manual. The running gear at the rear is from a mobility scooter with a 24v motor powering through the same axle set up that you have just aquired! He has incorperated a variable risitor to the dash-board in order to control the speed for the skill level of the driver. It needs some time spending on the finishing & detail (once I hve checked it over) but looks like it will be up and running this summer!
With the T2 & scooter I got some spares and included in the spares is another rear axle so if you need anyting let me know! I'll take some more pictures when I next get chance showing the set up ect.
All the best.
Ted

[multisync]

Hi Mark
I see you got home safe and sound if a bit wet! Hope you enjoyed the Newark outing as much as we did.
A couple of pages back you were asking about the scooter motor with a micro switch on the brake lever.I knew that I had the answer, but couldn't remember where in my cloudy grey matter, I had it stored!
But I think it goes like this.......................

As you know all scooters have some sort of device to enable them to be manually pushed in the absence of motor power.

In some cases this is a lever that disconnects the gearbox/differential from the output shaft. When pushed the roadwheels turn and thats all. If a user tries to start it up, the motor runs but it doesn't go anywhere as the drive is disconnected.

In other types, the arrangement is a lever that lifts the brake off. When pushed, this type of scooter still has the motor output connected to the road wheels and the resistance of the motor, (acting as a generator) can be felt. To prevent the user driving off when the brake is disconnected, the lever also operates a microswitch which sends a signal to the controller inhibit circuit, this prevents the user driving it off on a slope and then being unable to stop it!

Sorry its a bit long winded...hope it makes sense
and remember........most people say.....if it aint broke.......dont fix it
but on this forum, remember!..........if it aint broke, it hasnt got enough mods, yet!
Regards
Walter

[multisync]

Hi again
just a post script to the above
If any of you have a buggy with a rhino speed controller, made by dynamic controls you can get details of the wiring if you download the installation manual at http://www.dynamiccontrols.com/index.cfm/3,80,241/rhino-install-manual-0305.pdf. Bits and pieces of other useful notes there too.
Regards
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Walter,
Excelent, thank you for that. I think I understand what you mean. 

The controller that came with the motor is a 'Dynamic' one, it's a DS 161, but fortunately it came with a full installation and workshop (type) manual for the DS 101 / DS 161 controllers.

It's quite good, as it has 'fault Finding' and 'Fault Diagnosis' sections, 'Wiring Diagrams', 'Mantainance' and even a section on 'Programming' the control box.

Some of it (pages 1 - 43) are above my head, but it might come in usefull if you (or Brian) move into the area, as you can 'de-cypher' it for me!

Yes, Gary and I both enjoyed the show, and meeting everyone. Gary was quite impressed with Shaun, the young lad we were both talking to, who is building his own Toylander.
Such a refreshing change to see a 'Youngster' who is interested in 'Hands-on' projects, rather than destroying things!!

We didn't get wet, and managed to get 'Loaded Up' just as the rain eased about 4:30 pm.
Good run home, but we did get diverted slightly, as one of our routes home had been closed by the police (don't know why), but I automatically went into 'White Van mode' and found an alternative route.
The only excitement was, the route took us down quite a steep, winding country road, which had a sudden 'Dip' in it, which was so severe, the 'Antiluce's' on the trailer jolted open, and the tailgate dropped down, scaring the daylights out of the Mercedes driver behind us!!

Hope to see everyone soon, could do with the next 'Outing' being more 'Midlands' (Birmingham, Coventry) direction, so that more from 'Down South' can make the trip, and we can get more than 12 Toylanders in one place!!

Keep busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[multisync]

Hi Mark
Yes......antiluces jumping out........I've had that in the past and I now put a bungee across the back of the trailer with one hook in the bottom of each antiluce to prevent it. I tried using spring clips that you can buy for that purpose but kept loosing them in the shed!
Programming on the controllers requires a programming unit that the manufacturer supplies, no doubt it costs a fortune!
Regards
Walter

[jimmyybob]

I have also looked into dynamic controls in the past, the programing unit is around ?275.!!!!!!!!
The controller they were selling i was interested in was only ?90.

[markh15]

Hi Guys,

The thing is Walter, I have angled them about 30 degrees outwards from the vertical to stop this happening! So short of putting small nuts and bolts through them, which causes more hassle, then it might just have to be a bungee strap!

As for the controller programmer, unless you can program it to make a coffee, and enable me to keep up with Harvey, it's out of the question!!

Regards,
Mark.

[multisync]

Hi
just a little bit of addition to the info on microswitch on buggy motor/brake.
The microswitch is wired in series with the brake, so that operating the micro switch simply disconnects the brake circuit. The controller senses that the brake circuit is broken and shuts down.
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Mark
How are you?
What's happened to the "secret project" lately? It seems to have taken a back seat!
My "TotRod" is on the back burner at the moment too, but I have another idea wearing out my gray matter now. You've mentioned a slightly larger model, I,m toying (no pun intended) with the idea of a slightl smaller model.
So what with the Toylander 2, the TotRod, maybe a Lorry, and the small model, I don't know where to start.
Keep busy
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Walter,
Due to the weather here being a bit hit and miss, I can't get the body parts outside to mock them up.
This is because the shed is full of Toylander, and Large sheets of 12mm ply, so there's not enough room to work.

I am still chasing scooters for bits, and trying (unsucsessfully) to work on the Toylander.
I either need to have a clearout, or build a bigger shed!!

Keep Busy,
Best Regards,
Mark.

[colin1117]

 the 'Antiluce's' on the trailer jolted open, and the tailgate dropped down, scaring the daylights out of the Mercedes driver behind us!!

I use a couple of cheap padlocks in the bottom of the antiluces' ... stops em popping open  and a deterrent for prying eyes.

Colin

[markh15]

Hi Colin, and welcome,
Good idea for the antiluces, but the trailer is open, so unless they come with a 'cloaking device', that puts the kybosh on that idea!

Never mind, keep smiling, and follow from a safe distance!!

Regards,
Mark.

[colin1117]

Sorry, forgot my trailer gotta lid 

Colin

[markh15]

Hi Guys,
The weather has been a little kinder this last few days, so I've been able to get a little more done (just to keep Walter happy).  

Most of the work has been trimming and 'tweeking' the main parts of the body, to get a really good fit.
In the previous pictures of the body, nothing was screwed together, so that was the first thing to be sorted.

I have added battens to fasten the various bits to the floor and each other, and it's starting to take shape.

This is the general view....



Of the left side, the only bit 'balanced' it the top of the bulkhead.
This has been made slightly (1") wider than the lower part, as I hope to mount the windscreen to this....



The framework for the 'Side Pods' is in place. The center rib is rebated (4mm) into the body side and the floorpan, to try and stop the pod 'skewing' if it takes an impact....



whether it works or not remains to be seen.

The back panel is fixed (clamped for now)....



and I'm still not sure whether to modify it to the 'Australian' spec, or leave it 'long' (as it is now) like the British Moke, this will depend on tyre clearance....



The front wheels will have plenty of clearance, as the Inner wing is 7.25" from the outer body edge, and I intend to set the track of the (narrowed) wheels as far out as looks right....



The rims are going to be narrowed by a full 2", so should give good turning radius, and still look like wide steelies, 'chunky'.....



The front of the chassis is in place, and I have worked it out so that I can still get the two batteries under the bonnet....



Most of the work has been 'chamfering' edges, as some of the parts are at quite steep angles (bulkhead, pod fronts, floor pan ends etc), and this has taken time to achieve, as I have to use the small 'disk / belt' sander to take the material away gradually, but it's working, and now looks pretty good.

In saying this, I've had to make the bulkhead parts 3 times, and the inner wings twice before I was completely happy with them. It's not the simplest of builds, that's for sure, but I'm learning!!

I have decided to make some of the outer panels (Wing tops, Pod Top panels and outers, Body / Bonnet top extensions) from MDF, in an attempt to get a smoother finish for the paint, so that's the next step.

I have to decide how to shape the rear section of the floorpan. I'm torn between a 'Stepped' flat floor, or a 'Sloping' panel, but the axle unit I choose will have the final say in this. I have the choice of 2, either the 'Diff' type one I bought from Stoke, or a 'Transaxle' type I have from a 'Pride' scooter, but thats a headache for another day!!

Well, I hope this has satisfied Walter's curiosity  , and keeps everyone else happy,

Keep Busy with all your projects,
Regards,
Mark.

[brian]

Very good Mark, keep up the good work.

Regards,

Brian.