mobility scooter axles

[landtractor1]

hello everyone, could anyone tell me if mobility rear axles can be narrowed.im about to start a tractor build,and after a quick look i think axle is going to be to wide.can anyone help.many thanks

[markh15]

Hi There,
If I were you, I'd determine the width of the tractor first, either by asking forum member 'Jimmybob' for some help (he is currently building a tractor), or by buying the Manual from Richard.
I would then go and measure a Scooter, to see how much they differ.

There are so many different types and sizes of scooter out there, that there must be one to suit your needs.
If you look in the Gallery under the 'Toylander 2' pictures, the centre picture on the second row, shows my diff / axle setup.
This came from a 'Free Rider' scooter, and measures about 22" from the end of one shaft to the other, and about 17" between the ends of the axle casings, just to give you an idea of size.

I don't know how the tractor is driven, but I suspect that it's the same principal as the cars, chain drive from the motor to the rear wheel / wheels.
This said, the scooter axle will have to be slightly wider than the body, to allow the chain and sprockets to line up.

As for modifying the axle, it would depend greatly on your access to machinery such as a lathe, welding equipment and such. Also your abilities will play a big part, but it is possible to shorten, (or even lengthen) the longer of the two axle tubes.

You would have to cut it at the flanged end (diff), and then machine (lathe) the exess metal out of the flange.
You would have to cut the axle tube very accurately, before welding it squarely back into the flange.

The inner shaft is slightly easier. The ones I have seen have a hole 'Cross Drilled' through the shaft, into which a solid pin passes. This pin locates into one of the 'Planet Wheels' in the differential, allowing it to drive the shaft.
Again, very precise measurements would be needed, and accurate drilling of the new hole required for the drive pin.

Hope this has helped,
Regards,
Mark.

[brian]

Hello Mr LTractor.

I am a Toylander 2 builder so the following is only an idea based on experience building the T2.

None of the dimensions of the various models are cast in stone and can easily be modifies provided you are not going to use the paper patterns as actual patterns to cut around.

[See my observations under the "Cutting" topic.

If the mobility scooter rear track is only marginally wider than the plans track, I would adjust the dimensions of the rear of the tractor to accommodate the increased track.

Looking at the posted photo's of the completed tractors, it would seem possible to me to increase the rear seat box and foot board width only, to suit the modified track width, allowing
 the rear mudguards to be fixed in the normal way over the wheels.

This would give more adult bum room and be more sensible than trying to modify the mobility scooter rear axle.

I remember from my youth that many of the old tractors had the rear wheels set with a slightly wider track than the front, so it would not look at all out of place.

The above of course presupposes that we are not talking several inches increase in the track.  I would have thought that upto three inches, [75mm] increase in track could easily be accommodated in this way.

Regards,

Brian.

[bill shuter]

When I was looking for a Scooter to build my Geepstar from it soon became apparent that the widths vary greatly. I even went to look at one over 100 miles from home I was assured was the minimum width I needed. Only to find it was about 100mm too narrow! I had even e-mailed a drawing for them to measure it by & return to me. Perhaps you could also play around with wheel offsets/insets to get your required width?
Happy Building
Bill

[jimmyybob]

HI, increasing the rear track should be easy as you can see the rear end is basically a box so by simply increasing all your measurements you should easily be able to fit in different axle width.
As long as you havent already cut the base section.
BUT the tractor as standard doesnt use the scooter motor/axle set up so you will have to modify the 'tub' anyway.



I dont have the manual to hand and iam away for a week now...sorry.

[landtractor1]

hi all, thanks for your replies,mark are the sprocket and flanges in your pic standard or bought?

[markh15]

Hi LT1,
The hubs on the axle / diff end are standard scooter items, machined slightly to accomodate the sprocket.
The sprockets themselves came from 'Technobots' (www.technobots.co.uk) and are 3/8th pitch, with 40 teeth at the differential, and 60 teeth on the wheel hubs.

The modifications are detailed in my post 'Hi to All' under the 'Toylander 2' discussion heading.
 
The rear hubs are trailer items (as are the front), modified to fit the car, and accept the sprockets and cycle disk rotors.
You can find more details of this on my web page, just click on the 'Globe' icon below my name, and it will take you directly there.

Hope this has helped, anything else, just ask and we'll try to help.

Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[Tombraider]

Hi Mark,
I am considering using a scooter transaxle and am keeping an eye open on ebay for one. I note you used one from a Freerider which looks like it is a 4mph one but then you geared it down 40/60. Is this correct? I've done a bit of research and they all seem to have the same shaft output speed (168rpm) from what I could gather. The 4mph ones running on 8" wheels are 560W and the 5mph ones 750W on 10" wheels. Ideally, I would like to go with an 8mph motor and have a slow /fast speed switch like the high end scooters (I believe you can do this by wiring a 10k resistor to the throttle pot as mentioned on the 4QD website).
I believe that Gremlin used a 4mph transaxle as he used a 500W chinese speed controller with larger diameter wheels but as he says, it is slow to pull away and struggles uphill but it will do 8mph.
If you are using 16" dia wheels, then with 40/60 gearing, you'll be getting about 5.3mph? 
I also note you needed to add electric cooling fans - what wattage is your motor please? I'm a bit concerned now about putting anything more than a 560W motor in an enclosed wooden box. I think I may elect to put a cut out in the floor and have the motor hanging in free air if possible.
The width of the axle is also an issue - yours being 22" would fit nicely inside the tub sides so I guess you didn't need to shorten it? I imagine the shafts of the better made transaxles could well be hardened and difficult to machine/drill for a cotter drive pin if I need to do this to attach the sprockets.
Any tips gratefully received.
Whwn I start anothe rone, I think I'll buy an 8mph scooter and just rebody it - much easier to use all the existing steering, axles etc and some even come with suspension.
Regards
Mike

 



 
 

[markh15]

[Tombraider]

Thanks Mark. As you can see from the photo I have now uploaded to my profile (successfully by saving it as a smaller file in case anyone else is having similar problems) I have already built and painted the body tub having followed the standard plans so far (wish I had thought it through a bit more first and bought a scooter before starting). Good tip about the width of the axles; I had heard from a scooter repairer that they generally come in two different widths; 27 and 29". I appreciate your comments about 6mph being fast enough so maybe, as this is for a friend's son, I'll aim a bit lower and look for a 6mph scooter. I'm also wondering if I should fit a radio-controlled kill switch but I have wired it for the hand control to start with so that should probably be enough. I've made standard steering at the moment but have been following the articles about geared steering using sprockets or gears with great interest so may have a go at this once the car is up and running. I've also thought about the need for steady bars to the front axle to prevent it from twisting around the single pivot (some others I note have done this - similar to anti-tramp bars but going forwards). Am keen to have a go at another one after this (for myself!) but be more adventurous with suspension, wider tyres etc as a few others have done - there really is some impressive diy talent within this country.
Regards Mike

[max]

Hi all.
I'm not sure if anyone else has done this but i just cut the touch panel out of the mobility scooter and mounted it in a wooden box under the dash , the idea beening that it all plugged back in and it worked great. i try-ed drilling the Axel to mount the sprockets but the drill would not touch it so welded it instead.
regards
Max.

[markh15]

Hi Mike,

I have fitted a radio remote kill switch to Harvey's T2. The sales bumf claimed up-to 600 ft (200 yds) but it's nowhere near that sort of range.

I have wondered if it's the fact that the aerial wire has been extended, and runs through the trans tunnel to reach from the box at the front of the car, to the antenna at the rear?
Maybe I should've put the antenna on the front wing somewhere? Doh!

It does work, but only up-to about 50 ft, but it's useful when using the car near  main roads, or in public parks etc.

As for the front axle tie bars, Brian has them fitted, as do some others. They're a good idea on the swing / pivot axles, as they do stop the axle pivoting around it's transverse axis! (sorry I've been reading the sauce bottles again!)

The steering boxes / gearing efforts are all good, and some have had better results than others. Mine works fine, but has a limited steering wheel rotation, Brian's chain and sprocket design is the best for my money and I wish I'd have persued it when I first thought about trying it.

It has been said many times on here, you think you've hit on a good idea, but someone else 100 miles away has just had the same thought!

Great Minds Think Alike!!
Best Regards,
Mark.

[colin1117]

Yes, the aerial length is critical. The length as suppled is correct for the frequency of operation and should not be extended or shortened. If the receiver unit is mounted behind an mdf panel then the receiver will probably just fine. We fit radio remotes to winches an the receiver is normally fitted under the bonnet of the vehicle. The work fine at the end of a 100ft winch wire.

Colin
 

[multisync]

Hi Guys
As a regular Radio control flyer, I must agree with Colin. The aerial length, both on the transmitter and receiver is absolutely critical as it is tuned to the frequency of the radio signal. The receiver aerial should be run out in a straight line as far as is practical, and not coiled up or lengthened in any way.
A model boat with the aerial at ground level, has much less range than a model aeroplane, where the aerial is high up, so the position in the vehicle can also be critical.
Regards
Walter

[brian]

Eyup Walter, you've not got your T2 to fly have you?

I'll have to straighten Travis's curly aerial out and see if I can get it off the ground, what sort of runway length do I need for a toylander and a 3stone child to get upto take off speed???

Regards,

Brian.