Axle modification

[dale]

After reading the recommendations on this forum (thanks to everyone) I decided to modify the front axle on Jenna's Toylander to a swing axle type.  I haven't got access to a welder, so I cheated in that I bought the parts needed from Richard, but at least I was able to reuse the existing stub axles, and a few other bits.

Here's the Toylander all back together, and we've given it a brief test in the garden:-



I certainly think it's a vast improvement over a fixed front axle.  Whenever we used the Toylander on uneven ground, you'd hear creaks from the bodytub, due to the stresses applied to it as a wheel lifted off the ground.  So far, all four wheels have remained in contact with the ground, no loss of traction, and no more creaks and groans! 

I think I'll have to start looking at the steering next.  The drop arm from the steering column to the steering tie bar seems to struggle with the more extreme angles it is now subjected to by the swing axle.  I've seen that a few people have changed drop arms to threaded bar with either ball joints, or rose joints on the end.  What are peoples experience of them, which type is better, ball or rose joint, and what sort of sizes are needed to be robust enough?

[multisync]

Hi Dale
Yes! The swing axle is a big improvement isn't it, but it might give a little problem with the road wheel touching the body, on full lock and full swing especially if you don't fit the bump stops.
You may also find that the linkage is under some strain at the extremes.
I found that I could overcome the linkage problem by carefull fitting and adjustment of the nut and bolt pivots, so I never did get around to fitting rose joints! But I found that the only way to stop the wheel fouling the body was to fit steering stops to limit the total travel.
If you want details, just ask, and I'll take a pic and post it
Best of luck
Walter
What is the width of your axle please Walter? BW's Richard

[dale]

I'm hoping I won't have problems with the wheels fouling the bodytub, but I won't know for sure until we've tested it a bit more.  The kit from Richard included a 1" wider axle than standard, plus rubber bump stops which are fitted to the underside of the bodytub to stop the axle swinging too far and hitting the edge of the bodytub.  I checked the position of the bump stops before fixing them in place, and moved them inboard, or outboard, checking the wheel position at the extremes of axle/steering movement to make sure that the wheels didn't foul the body.  It does mean that the axle cannot travel as far as it potentially could, but it should still have sufficient travel for most situations.

At the furthest movement of the axle, the steering wants to spring back slightly to a position where it is not under stress.  You can hold it on full lock, but Jenna may not have the strength to do this.  I'm hoping that a drop arm with flexible joints would eliminate this stress?

[Ron-tje]

Hi all,

Just a brief question, how many "swing" do you actually get on a TL1 or 2? How high an abstacle/hole can you take before the other wheel lifts?

Looking for some info as I'm making plans for a custom build project (not even started on the TL2  ) Car will be mainly used on roads or lawns so I would think something like 30mm would do?

Thank you.

[Ant-G]

Hi Dale
Karts and mobility scooters tend to use ball ends with M8 threads which I would think would be suitable for the Toylander. You can get these from any kart shop for 3-4 pounds each
This is what I intend using on my build.
Hope this helps
Anthony

[max]

hello!
Has anyone thought about having a swing axle on the rear and connecting the motor direct to the axle??
may-be richard could shed some light on the issue!!
regards
Max.

infact while the car is in peices again i might look at it!!!( its getting a paint job)