Jigsaw recommendations

[Nerdos]

Hello all,
I'm new to the forum having received my plans a few months back and only now having just carved out enough space in my garage to get started.
I've read the build manual a few times and pored over the plans but before I commit to mangling my MDF I was hoping to clarify:
a) is using a protractor a truly accurate enough method to cut under and over as per the plans?
b) I think my Black and Decker jigsaw is well past its sell-by so was thinking of replacing it before I start.  I don't want to spend a lot (?60 tops) so it won't be DeWalt but can anyone suggest a model that is suitably adjustable, accurate and fits my stingy cost criterion?

Ta everso.

[KHP955]

Hello,

The jigsaw I used was just about the cheapest Black and Decker you can get.  Spend some money on decent blades and be patient with the cut.  Get different blades for curves and straights. It did have an adjustable foot, which I think is about standard these days.  I would have thought that should be accurate enough, though I was building a T1 and the only angle is on the top of the bulkhead.

Measure twice, cut once!!

Cheers,

Antony

[Nerdos]

Well, thank you all for your comprehensive and prompt recommendations.
I am fortunate to have inherited a router (which I've not yet had the need to use), pillar drill, belt sander and circular saws from my late father in law who was a joiner so I will be using those things and I will, on your advice, see if I can coax some service out of my B&D jigsaw.
As for Lidl et al. - my old man raves about these places for tools.  He is however a man who once used a spade as an axe and will use anything heavier than a shoe as a hammer but I know that the tools from these places are plenty good enough for most duties.

Oh, and I don't know who's confused now - me or you - but Ta everso in my neck of the woods is short for ta ever so much.  My parents were quite pedestrian: they named me Paul. 

[Aussie]

Hi

Both Walter and I have used this system and I have no doubt it is easier, faster and produces the best results.

Step 1.  Either attach the plans or transfer the measurements to a sheet of 4-6mm MDF.  Cut out the individual parts from the 4-6mm MDF with your jigsaw, handsaw etc.  Being only 4-6mm thick, it is very easy to cut.  Finish the parts to the exact size by sanding, filing, rasp etc.  Again the 4-6mm MDF is very easy to work.  Spend the time to make the patterns as good as you possibly can and the rest of the wood work will be easy.

Step 2.  Buy yourself a router and copy bit.  A copy bit is a cylindrical router cutting bit with a roller bearing, with the same OD as the cutting part, at either the top or bottom.

Step 3.  Put your patterns on top of the 12mm MDF and draw around them.  Cut out the 12mm MDF roughly using the jigsaw leaving 2-10mm waste around the edge.  The waste doesn't need to be a constant size, just cut them quickly.

Step 4.  Attach the patterns that you made in step 1 to the rough cut 12mm MDF made in step 3 using panel pins or similar. Set the depth of cut on the router so that the bearing runs against the edge of the pattern.  Turn the router on and run it around the edge of the patterns.

Using this method you will get clean, sharp cuts that are perfectly square and require no additional finishing and of course all of the duplicated parts, such as the side panels and inner wings will be exactly the same shape and size every time (keep the patterns and you can whip up another in no time).

For straight lines and right angle corners you don't need to bother with a pattern, use the factory edge of one of the sheets of MDF sheets as a guide.  It will give you straighter and cleaner edges than you can achieve with anything other than a profesional table saw.

You can also use the router for cutting panels without patterns.  For example the wing tops.  Rather than having to cut the wing tops exactly to size cut them slightly oversize and tack them in place.  Then put your router base plate flat on top of the wing top with the cutter bearing running on the sides of the wing panels and run it around the edges to be trimmed.  This way you are guaranteed to get wing tops that fit exactly.  You could do the same thing for the rear panel.

Another use for your router is to cut door and body shut lines into your toylander.  Buy a small V cutting bit.  Set the bit to cut only a couple of mm deep and then cut the outlines of the doors etc.  This will give you a groove/shadow line to represent body features.

Once you have a router and a little practice you will find it very versatile.

Cheers
Ian

[multisync]

HI
I did all my main cuts with a circular saw and straight edge clamped on, then used a jigsaw to add the curved cuts. When it comes to the angled cuts, the circular saw, or a table saw, comes in to it's own. The jigsaw must be just about the least useful tool that I own!
I do have a bandsaw tho, perfect for any items that are small enough for the table, or curved cuts on smaller items, probably the most useful tool that I own!
I also have a table saw, and once the 8x4 sheet is cut into manageable sizes, this is super for all but the largest pieces. It produces good square edges, parallel cuts and can easily produce several identical pieces. If you have one, or can get access to one, its the best solution for most parts.
Best Wishes
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Paul,
You're the third Paul registered now, maybe we should call you 'Everso' to avoid confusion!

As for the tools, it sounds as if you are well sorted to tackle your build, so I'd hang on to your 'wedge' and put it to something useful for the build (Headache tablets would be my suggestion), or some light (alcoholic) refreshment for the spring nights in the workshop.

Like I said in my first post, keep your eye on the three stores via their respective websites, and you might just see something else you could use in the workshop.

Keep Busy, and post us some pictures of the build,
Regards,
Mark (the joker).

[Nerdos]

OK, next potentially stupid question for everyone.  It's not about jigsaws but it is about how to machine the body panels so I thought I'd keep it in this thread.
Rounding over the body sides: it seems obvious to me as someone who did a little geometry at school that the rounding over of a 12mm thick panel will require a rounding over bit for my router with a radius of 12mm - anything less will give a step I guess?  The thing is that as far as I have been able to make out from B&Q and two other tool sellers that I have visited that rounding over bits seem to go up to a radius of 9.6mm and then become mysteriously unavailable in sizes beyond this.
Can any learned members confirm that a 12mm rounding over bit is what is required here and, if possible, where I might find one for a 1/42 shank router.
Ta,
Paul B.

[brian]

Hello again Paul.

Considering you only have to round off two edges more or less, it hardly seems worth the cost or effort in buying a bit and setting up the router to do them.

I used a plane to take most of the angles off and finished off with 80 - 160 grit sandpaper, with MDF the material comes off very quickly.

Regards,

Brian.

[Nerdos]

Thanks Brian.  The hand-crafted approach is obvously cheaper but I don't trust myself to do a good job of it.  Some people on here are artisans, I am not unfortunately.  I could give the sanding method a go but I'm loath to mess up another side panel (I've had to make 3 so far - some wittering fool on the radio in my workshop made me so angry that I lost concentration and the router ran away with itself.  I count myself lucky to be in full possession of all my fingers still).

[brian]

Hello Paul.

Having used a router, I know how easy it is for one to run away with you, they are lethal if used free hand and really should only be used with fixed templates which is how they are generally used professionally.

I honestly believe you are more likely to cock up the edge using a router free hand than you are rounding them off by hand.

It really is quite easy, if you have a hand plane, just run it along the sharp outer edge of the side to create a chamfer, then using a rough [80 ish] grit paper rubbed along using the palm of the hand as a profile you can't fail to achieve a rounded edge.

regards,

Brian.

[multisync]

Hi Paul
Well the answer is yes and no!
If like me you have a hobby type router you will only find suitable bits in the smaller sizes, a bigger cutter will need a more powerful machine and is likely to be 1/2 inch shank.

However, if you use a 12 mm radius bit you will, of course, round over the full width of the panel. This is fine on a straight line as you can guide the router with a straight edge or its built in fence.
But as I assume that you will want to use the router to follow around the curves at the leading edge of the front wing, then you will need a router bit with a guide bearing. The limitation then, is that you will have to leave a small amount of the edge "un rounded" for the guide to follow. Therefore you actually need a cutter of about 9.5 mm radius.
I hope that this makes sense, I'll draw a picture and post it in a minute.
Walter

[multisync]

Hi again

Hope this helps to make sense of my previous post

Best wishes
Walter

[Richard]

Hello Paul,
Have a look at Wealden http://www.wealdentool.com/ I went there for my cutters BUT if you want to produce the full 12mm round over you will need to use a bearing cutter AND a former or pattern. This is how I used to cut out the panels. With just one panel you need a guiding edge for the roller bearing to follow. You could clamp the panels back to back, this is not easy. They need to be firmly fixed or you will damage two sides at once. Don't ask!

I am not sure if you can get 12mm on a quarter shank but a look at their website will tell you. Cut 9mm and you can do as Brian says and finish off the last bit but the 9mm looks fine.

If you do use a router make sure everything is clamped firmly in place with clearance for the tool body and the cutter. Practice on a scrap piece first. Couple of sites to look at below, one has a video of rounding over.
Hope this helps. Good luck
Richard
http://www.expertvillage.com/video/90719_wood-router-profiling.htm
http://www.diydata.com/tool/router/router.php

[multisync]

Hi again
If you're familiar with using a router, ignore this comment,
but for anyone who isn't , NEVER use a router without a guide of some sort. They wern't made for freehand use, and are lethal tools. Practice makes perfect.
Take care cutting
Walter

[paulr]

Hi Paul from PaulR  we did the edges of out series 1 by hand by taking the point off with a Sureform (plane) and then with sandpaper little by little to get the desired result.  However if you are after router bits try this company  www.axminster.co.uk look for a cmt roundover and ovolo cutter.  Probably by the time you have found it the job is almost done anyway.
Happy cornering 

PaulR