TOYLANDER 2...Started at Last

[multisync]

Hi mark
No false floor. The batteries just sit on two offcuts of 20 mm square, thats to keep them up above the bolt heads that come through the floor from below. The unpainted batten is screwed to the internal ledge to stop the batteries moving forward. The speed control is bolted to the front panel, at the moment the heads show on the outside, I'll paint em sometime. Then there's a small panel for the plugs and things, its on some 2 inch spacers, glued above the ledge, to give room below it for the wiring. The batteries are 35 Ah gel type from the buggy. I do have the velcro straps from the buggy to fix the batteries but seems unnecessary.
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Walter,
Yes, I used the velcros too. Mine loop around two small gate handles on the floor of the compartment (back and front), and a large gate handle between the two batteries. I added some small off-cuts of the alloy body trim, screwed to the side of the floor to stop sideways movement, but as you say, they dont seem to move that much (not at 8 mph), just a safety thing I suppose.
Great minds and all that!

Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[multisync]

Hi Guys
Getting towards what can loosely be called "finished" now. Pictures on the gallery. They'll be there tomorrow I expect.
All mechanics and electrics finished, except lights. Carpets are in, and transmission tunnel is covered with carpet. The rear seating is also carpet covered, the seats have small blocks on the underside to locate them and then fix in with velchro!
I'll do the same with the front seat, its black paint at present. The back rest simply locates behind the seat and leans on two rubber stops. It can be lifted out and laid in the back as a seat for taller drivers.
The headlights are screw caps from "coffee mate" jars with the centres removed and some perspex fitted as lenses. The lenses are sanded on the back to make opaque. I'll be fitting led bulbs behind them sometime. The spotlight is tyhe headlight from the original invalid scooter.
More scale-like things still to do. I'm having some decals made, hopefully before Christmas, number plates are made, waiting for the letters. Still Keeping busy!
Got another project too, I'm making a passenger trailer for my wife's scooter, from the remains of the one I used for the Toylander! I'm thinking of using a rose joint as the the tow hitch, any other ideas.
Keep warm
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Guys
Just a couple of pics ( via photobucket, if I followed Marks tutorial correctly!).
The driver in first pic is 6 year old, with 10 and 12 year old passengers.






Not finished but the kids don't mind! Needs a respray already! as I hit the wall getting it out of back garden! Still....there we go..
Walter

[multisync]

Hi all
Just a little update......the girls were a little scared of it at first, and wanted the speed kept low, but by the time their parents came to collect them, their mother was turning it down and even the little one was saying " no, turn it back up, faster!
I was concerned that they might find the steering heavy, as I have the batteries over the front wheels, but no problem there. However I may have to address the fact that the steering is a bit twitchy, although they seem to be getting used to that as well.
Our daughters now want to know why they didn't get one when they were kids! In fact the grandchildren have difficulty getting it away from their mother!
All in All, great success.
Thanks for all the help and advice, along the route
hope you all had a good time
Walter

[multisync]

Hi all
Just to show I've not been idle! I used most of the invalid buggy for the Toylander but couldn't see the remnants go to waste, so I made a trailer for the wife's buggy, using a rose joint for the tow hitch.  It pulls two adults with ease, doesn't seem to affect performance, but in a straight race the Toylander is faster!
Keep a look out for us on the M4!!
Picture shows our 10 yo granddaughter at the controls and me on the trailer. It stops 'em fighting over who drives the Toylander!

Walter

[multisync]

Hi all
Just a bit of an update.
My drive chains have already become quite slack, the motor simply bolts into slots through the floor panel. Not good enough, needs a more positive tensioning arrangement.
The steering is OK ish, but could be improved. Some play in the linkage, needs ball joints, and needs a reduction gear, or larger steering wheel. It's not unduly heavy, just twitchy.
Regards
Walter

[multisync]

Hi guys
Now trying to get my enthusiam back up this cold weather!
Spent some time in the garage today and made adjusters for the motor position to help with chain tensioning. Simple arrangement, a steel angle bolted across the floor, tapped for two 8mm bolts with locknuts(out of sight in the picture). The bolt heads are adjusted up against the motor mounting blocks, so they should maintain a positive location. I now need to get the children here for a couple of hours to give it a thorough test!

Still thinking about the steering setup. May get a sudden rush of blod to the brain and do something!
Regards
Walter

[multisync]

Hi Mark
Yes, I thought we were on the same wavelength. The angle is bolted through the floor, and the long bolts push against the motor mount. I'm banking on it all being sufficiently rigid just as it is.
However, the motor mount is a only a wooden block, so I may have to put a metal shoe against it to spread the load, the angle may also need improved fixing, there's just two bolts into the floor at present. I had previously cut some of the floor away to get the motor low enough, right in the area where I now need to put the bolts, so fixing isn't quite so simple.
KR's
Walter

[brian]

Good morning Walter.

Just had a thought, I do occasionaly,  look on EBay under "Universal Joint", There are lots of 1/2" drive tool universal joints which would do the trick as you have welding facilities.  They are for sale at very reasonable prices, and I also found not far down the page an actual Land Rover defender steering universal joint at ?11, could be too big and I must confess, I do like the socket set universal joint idea now that I have seen them.

The RS universal joint I used was one I had in stock from a gearchange project I was going to do on my son's Quantum kit car, but I couldn't find a round tuit, so it was never done.

Regards,

Brian.

[multisync]

Brian
Hi, I had thought about the socket set U/J's myself, especially as they come in 3/8 as well as 1/2 in. I do wonder about welding them tho, my welding skills are a bit limited, and as they may be hardened, I don't know if it's a problem or not. Perhaps I could make use of the square anyway, mmmm brain working again!
Have you seen how the coupling works on some washing machines?.....basically its a length of reinforced hose and two hose clips! Might be all thats needed on the steering as I'm only thinking of it to correct for misalignment, and its not taking great loads of power as in a drive train.
Regards
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Guys,
Sorry to chip in so late, but the computers fixed now (I hope), so we're back in busness.
I like the idea of the 3/8th drive u/j Walter, it seems really feasable. As you say it's joining the bits together when welding is a problem.
 
I'm sure that a local garage would help out if you get all of the bits preped and ready for assembly.
On the other hand, if you used 12 mm solid rod for the inner column, you could grind or file the end square for it to fit one side of the u/j, and use a short extension with the square (male) end cut off, for the shaft which attaches to the Gear, Cog etc.  These extensions are only 10 mm in diameter, so should easily be upto the job.
If you have a pillar drill, or access to one, you could drill the bits and use 'Rolled Pins' as I have done, and then fasten the bits together that way.

Instead of buying new Walter, try local 'Flea Markets' and 'Car Boot Sales', they might turn something up at a fraction of the cost.

I have asked Gary about the U/J's he had, and he can't remember where they came from, be it a previous employer (most likely), or where he works now, but he said that they sometimes have them in at his works, and they are generally changed for sturdier items, so he said he'll have a look around and see if he can find one or two, for spares for other projects, so you might strike lucky yet mate!!

Progress on the car has been almost nil, with having to sort out the computer (I felt like I'd lost a limb!), so now that it's running again, I gan get back into the workshop and make some progress!

As you can tell by my ramblings, I've missed the forum,
Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.

[jimmyybob]

Hi all, Just to let you know that these people do the U/J joints your after http://www.brammer.co.uk/default.aspx the only problem is i cant find them on there web site.
I know they do them because i received  a copy of there new catalogue today and they are in there.
The sizes are...Bore size from 6 to 25mm and they do them in single and double jointed.


These are the actual ones they sell go down to page 7.....or buy direct from them.


http://www.lenze.co.uk/200_Partner_Products/220_UK_Partner_Products/0240_UK_Multimedia/0220_Products/0280_Couplings_Technology/0210_Flexible_shaft_couplings/0210_Jaw_couplings/Shaft_couplings_and_UJs.pdf

[multisync]

Hi all
Just a couple of pics to prove I've not been totally idle, bits of cosmetic work done. Alluminium angle fitted around body and decals, with a bit of paintwork to the rear.





Best Wishes
Walter

[markh15]

Hi Walter,
Nice to see you back in the saddle, so to speak. I have to say that I like the 'Toylander' Stripe across the bonnet, it looks really effective.

Am I right, didn't you write that you have two more for the sides? Can I make a suggestion for their placement? As is usually the case, I bet that you've already thought of this.

The first thing that occured to me when I saw the stripe, was that they would look great along the side, with the bottom edge of the decal sitting along the top edge of the sill line. This would place the 'script' part across the lower edge of the door.

Can I be rude and ask where you had them made? I ask because I really fancy a pair for Harvey's landy. I'll trade you the information for a small U/J!

I've been looking on Ebay at genuine 'Land Rover' badges, for the grill. There are loads for sale, in various sizes and for varying prices, so I'll have to have a measure up and get my hand in my pocket!!

I like your seat idea too, a very simple solution to the problem. I have yet to cover mine, but intend to fix them in place on the boards with heavy duty velcro, so that they can be removed allowing the back to fold flat, for adult drivers.

Looking good Walter, Hope you can find a way of getting the little car to the 'Bun Fest', as I for one would like a closer look.

Keep Busy,
Regards,
Mark.